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Cosmetic actives and the sun: FRIENDS or ENEMIES?

With AHAs and Retinol on the skin, stay away from the sun.

Glycolic Acid (and peelings in general) and Retinol detach skin cells from the first epidermal layers to stimulate their renewal. The result is a radiant complexion. The other side of the coin however, is that the skin's barrier function is temporarily altered, leaving it "bare" and at the mercy of UV rays, which can penetrate deeper into the skin.

And this is not insignificant because post-peeling sun exposure can result in redness or irritation or even in an overstimulation of the melanocytes (the melanin factories) responsible for hyperpigmented spots.

In concrete terms, Peels and Retinol are best used in the evening, with the application of a sunscreen the next day if you are exposed to the sun.

Essential Oils - but not in the sun

For the essential oil of bergamot (and several other essential oils derived from  citrus fruits), you should take care to avoid them before heading out into the sun.

It is the furocoumarins present in these citrus essential oils, and in particular the bergapten in the case of bergamot, that make your skin photosensitive. These chemicals combine with the DNA of keratinocytes (the cells of the epidermis) and absorb UV energy, causing irreversible damage to the skin such as spots, premature wrinkles and even may cause skin allergies.

Fortunately, chemists have more than one trick up their sleeve and have managed to remove furocoumarins from essential oils that contain them, but it is not always the case.


When using essential oils, make sure they are free of photosensitizing molecules. And don't forget to ask for advice from a health professional (such as a pharmacist or naturopath) because even though these essential oils are 100% natural, they are not to be used by everyone. The golden rules for essential oils:

NO for pregnant and breastfeeding women.

NO for children, except in exceptional cases and depending on the essential oil and the age of the child.

Cheap essential oils? Give them a miss!

When taking essential oils orally, be extremely careful.

For a cutaneous application (applying on your skin), never use pure oil. Be sure to always dilute it in a neutral vegetable oil or a cosmetic base and ask about its dosage.

And at Novexpert, is it always no for essential oils?

Novexpert has chosen to exclude essential oils from its formulation charter.

Why? Because they can be highly allergenic even though they are natural compounds.

The allergenic potential comes from the fact that an essential oil can contain 200 to 600 different molecules, and it only takes one of them to cause an allergy (statistical law).

So you understand that essential oils can't be used by all skin types, especially sensitive skin, nor be used  in hypoallergenic products.

Furthermore, at Novexpert, we want our products to be compatible with pregnant and nursing women. The majority of essential oils are potentially neurotoxic and can harm the pregnancy. Indeed, they have the capacity to penetrate the layers of the skin to the bloodstream...and thus to the unborn child.

In addition, some essential oils have an action on the hormonal system (called hormone-like). They are thus considered as Endocrine Disruptors and are therefore banned from our formulation charter and this is without concession.

The sun, the sworn enemy of vitamin C? Are you sure?

It's a myth that is popular but we are going to strike it out right away: a formula with vitamin C is not necessarily incompatible with the sun!

If a brand tells you not to expose yourself to the sun after using its vitamin C serum on the pretext that vitamin C is sensitive to the sun, this is false. It is the product itself that is incompatible with sun exposure. Why is this? Because the standard (conventional) vitamin C (usually ascorbic acid) can only penetrate the skin and therefore be effective at a very acidic pH, around 3. Knowing that, the pH of lemon juice is 2.5 - it is so acidic that it is too acidic for the skin! This can cause the skin to become "naked" similar to a peeling treatment .....do you remember what Peeling and sunlight can give?

Thanks to our Stabilized Vitamin Complex, the Vitamin C is protected from destruction, especially by light and heat.

And to reassure you completely:

• The pH of our Booster with Vitamin C is close to that of the skin, so it is compatible with all skin types, even sensitive ones.

• The Vitamin C Booster is certified non photoallergic, non phototoxic and therefore non photosensitive.

Our Booster with Vitamin C, is a source of vitamin C for your skin, useable 365 days a year, in all weathers and whatever your skin type!

Our 100% sun-kissed complexion routine, Zero risk and Zero spots guaranteed!

In the morning, apply the Booster with Vitamin C alone or before your usual cream.

In the evening, after cleansing your skin, apply the Whitening Booster with Green Tea Polyphenols alone or before your usual cream.